Wiring Transition from Inside of wall to Outside of Wall for hard-wired appliance


I am installing an electric kickspace/toe kick heater as part of my kitchen remodel. I do not quite understand how to transition the supply wiring from inside the wall to the space underneath of the cabinet where the heater will located.

It seems if I used a junction box that is secured inside of the wall (like all standard receptacle/switch installations), there would not be a way to get the wire into the living space (requirement for the junction box to be closed up with a faceplate).

If I mount a junction box outside of the wall, so I can use the side entrances/exits for the wires in the living space, then the supply wire would just exit the wall unprotected for a small distance - I don't think that is code compliant (please correct me if I am wrong).

Any advice would be helpful. NEC 2014 applies in my area and the work will be...

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I guess the "abominable drop ceiling" was installed to hide this horrendous wiring mess. The proper technique to fix this is to open up the wallboard and drill holes through the studding to pass the wires through the studs. This proper fix would also involve opening up the wall on the other side to locate the destination of one end of the wire so that it can be pulled back and re-routed through the new hole in the stud.

There is a less desirable fix that you could also try to do. This one would also involve opening up the drywall large enough to create a work space around the studs. It looks like you are already faced with some major drywall hole repair anyway. :-( This approach should probably be avoided if the wall is a load-bearing wall.

You would notch into the studs to create a groove through which the wires can be routed. Then cover over the groove with metal screw or nail safety plates. If multiple studs are in that area you may have to install several of these...

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I had someone connect some romex for some wall lights for me. I ran the wire, and just had him do the connections (they're inside junction boxes). This from a partially finished space into a finished space. As the run starts it is in holes drilled through exposed 2x4 wall (the other side has drywall), it leaves the wall and goes out and over the metal support beam and into a finished drywall ceiling. It's stapled on the vertical part. On this part I use a flexible metal raceway (secured at both ends) to go over the beam (the builder did the exact same thing). After this, I ran the wire between the floor joists. I laid it on top of the ceiling that's finished with drywall.

I sold my house... it will be inspected...like.. in a couple days... do I need to tear out portions of the ceiling and staple this wire to the joists? Do I need to take it all out and have it pass, then have someone else come in and redo it? Will he get on a ladder and look at how it's run? Does it matter?...

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I am working in a garage and need to run electrical wire through a corner. I cannot go over the corner through the ceiling (a long story), and going through the studs at a right angle will be a significant challenge.

Since this is a garage, I'm ok if the wire comes out of the sheet rock. Can I just have the wire come out through the sheetrock, in a conduit, go around the corner, and then have it go back into the second wall?

Or must the wire go to a box on the first wall, come out of the box in a conduit, then go into a box on the second wall and then continue on?

Thanks for the repliess - I think the trunking is the way to go. I just don't know if I need to have an electrical box on each wall at the exit and entry points (?) or can I just come in and out directly, assuming the wire is within the trunk while outside the...

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For homes old enough to have tube & knob wiring (two single wires), there was a tendency to run wires to the top of a room, then drop them to their fixtures along stud spaces , at least in my area. while in the ceiling, there was a tendency to run across the "grain", driving tubes thru each joist to house an individual wire and sometimes along the joists...Sometimes, when joining outlets, they'd run tube thru the studs to connect strings of outlets.

With modern wiring, there's a tendency to follow the stud and joist spaces, especially since there's been more scrutiny by officials in how things are wired, although one can't be certain that it was done by the book.

Being who I am, I tend to think there was a purpose for the switch. And so, I'd be inclined to suspect it either at one time powered a ceiling light that has been capped over or (bad form) plastered in), or that it once powered a "convenience" outlet.

For the first situation, is there...

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Remember to bring me that holotape as soon as you return from the Institute.

”— Ingram

Outside the Wire is a Brotherhood of Steel main quest in Fallout 4.

Quick walkthroughEdit

Detailed walkthroughEdit

During the infiltration of the Institute, Proctor Ingram has ordered to steal data from one of their terminals using the network scanner holotape.

Access the terminal at the Institute relay area and entrance, insert the network scanner holotape, and remove the data. Then simply continue the rest of the main quest Institutionalized. Return to Proctor Ingram and give her the data.

This holotape may also have been given by, and then handed by the Sole Survivor back over to, another faction -- e.g., to Sturges of the Minutemen as part of Inside Job. If so, then before giving it to Proctor Ingram at Boston Airport, the Sole Survivor may first need to retrieve it by asking for a copy of the holotape while this quest is selected in Pip-Boy....

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Electrical wiring in the home is usually located in ceilings and attics, under floors and through interior walls. Running wires through interior walls is easier in new construction before the drywall is installed, but that’s not always possible. Some homes are rewired to meet a new electrical code, and sometimes the homeowner just needs an additional circuit for an outlet or appliance. If surface-mounted wiring through conduit is unacceptable, you can run new wire through the walls and finish it almost invisibly once the job is complete.

Tap the wall with a hammer across the area where the new wiring will be installed. Each time you hear a sharp tap instead of a hollow-sounding thud, mark the spot on the wall with a pencil. The sharp tap sound is produced when the hammer strikes the wall where a stud is located.

Pierce the drywall with the tip of a drywall saw on the left or right side of one of the pencil marks on the wall. A drywall saw is a long, slender knife with...

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WHEN additional wall switches or electrical outlets are needed for appliances, lighting fixtures or ceiling fans, the usual procedure is to run wires or cables through the hollow wall spaces, then cut openings in the walls to accommodate the new outlets or switches.

However, homeowners now can add outlets, switches and receptacles without chopping holes in walls, and without having to try to fish wires through hollow wall spaces that are often blocked by insulation, pipes or blocks of wood. A new wiring system is available that uses easy-to-install plastic raceways or channels that mount on the surface of the wall or ceiling and carry wires that run from existing outlets to the new switches or receptacles, which are also mounted on the surface of the wall.

Ideal for the installation of track lighting, ceiling fans, lighting fixtures and other appliances, this new system is called Sure-Snap On-Wall Wiring. It is made by the Wiremold...

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Turn off power to the electrical circuit you will be working on. Remove the baseboards between the outlet you're tapping for the electrical power and the new receptacle space. Be careful not to crack or break this trim, as you will be reinstalling it later.

Examine the drywall near the floor. Normally the drywall will end about 1/2 inch above the floor; you'll run the cable in this space. If the drywall extends all the way to the floor, you have to cut a channel along the bottom to contain the wire so the baseboard will be flush with the wall when it is reinstalled.

Take the cover off the receptacle and pull the outlet from the electrical box. On the bottom of the box is a “knockout” that must be removed so the new electrical cable can be attached. If the knockout has not been removed, punch it out using a hammer and screwdriver. Cut a small notch at the base of the drywall to pull the BX cable through. Make sure this notch is not larger than the molding.

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Battery powered interior lights are at the other end of the spectrum from hard-wired lights.

Inexpensive and ultra-easy to install, battery lights are ideal for dark infrequently visited areas like coat closets, pantries, and storage closets. But they also have two problems: they use batteries and they are not very bright.

If you do decide to go this route, at least make sure you are buying a top-quality battery-powered light. The Mr. Beams motion sensor ceiling light shines a healthy 100... lumens to help you find the Campbell's soap or to bring out the cross-country skis for the season.

Though it uses 4 C-cell batteries, energy drain is kept to a minimum because of its miserly LED bulb.

If you live in an area prone to power blackouts, Mr. Beams lights are almost a necessity.

Buy on Amazon - Mr. Beams Motion Sensor Ceiling...

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If you need to find the wires inside your walls, you'll probably want a non-invasive way to look for them. After all, without a method to your madness, you'd just be hammering unsightly holes through your drywall in a vain attempt to cross paths with your wires. Instead, there's a better way: With the right tools and techniques, you can locate, or trace, your wiring without damaging your walls.

Tracing electrical wiring in walls can be tricky, and it involves more than just looking for the wires themselves. To figure out exactly where the wires are, you'll look f or the outlets and appliances that each wire connects to. You'll also figure out which circuit breaker applies to which section of your home's wiring.

You may be wondering why someone would go through all that trouble just to figure out the locations of wires. Knowing where your wires are can help you make repairs, plan for home improvement projects and even make your home safer. By knowing which outlets...

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