Kenmore dryer heating element heats up, but only for about a minute


Observation is key to troubleshooting a gas dryer. Does your dryer get hot at the beginning of the run but finish cold? Does it never heat at all? Do you hear a chattering sound at times?

If your dryer is hot at the beginning of the run but finishes cold, then it is likely you have bad coils. As coils age, they lose the ability to hold the gas valves open. Sometimes this will cause the valves to open and shut rapidly, resulting in a chattering sound. Unfortunately, you can't test the coils to verify the failure, so replacing them is a decision you make based on the above observations.

If the dryer never heats, then there are more items to check and test. The first item is the igniter. There is a molex (clear plastic) connector attaching the igniter to the burner circuit: Disconnect this and place your ohm meter probes onto the two contacts on the igniter side of the connector. The meter should read under 100 ohms of resistance. Any reading above this value means that...

0 0

I have a kenmore electric dryer that is about 6 years old, the dryer turns on but will not heat. We assumed it was the heating element and replaced that just yesterday but it still will not heat up. What else could this be...I have heard everything from lint trap clogged (which I cleaned up regularly) to thermostat and something called a thermal fuse and would rather not start replacing things unnecessarily. The heating element coils were black and there was a brown burnt spot on the element, I am assuming that means it was bad. The element had what I am assuming was a thermostat attached to it, which we added to the new element that arrived. All of the wires looked fine, nothing seemed fried, or split, etc. What is the most logical possibility of what is wrong? Any help is appreciated...

0 0

Excellent! Remove the electrical plug from the motor and the reconnect it, making sure it is securely plugged in. If you have cleaned the entire cabinet interior, including the motor, very well, go ahead and reassemble the front part. After it is reassembled, go around to the back and remove the four screws at the bottom of the filter housing, pictured and labeled as "Blower Fan Behind Here" below. Pull it out a little bit and clean the bottom part of it out with a vacuum. Be very careful, those edges are sharp! Once cleaned out, reassemble and see if it still shuts off. I suspect you may have gotten to the issue since there was a bit of lint around the motor. Let me know what happens on the test...

0 0
Alison Weir: Thank you this is great. My dryer has power, etc. lint tray is clean but it just won't rotate. How do I know if it's the heating element? Did yours turn over and "operate" but just not heat? Thank you!

Dallas bell: where can I find the part number?

priscilla smith: Great source to find for home repairs! My HE 3 heat worked for 6 years until last month. I have continuity at the heater element. In your video you point out that the striped wire goes on the top connector. My striped wire was on the bottom connection - does that matter? Thanks!

Andy G.: Thank you!! It took me a whole 10 mins to take out the old one. It's definitely bad. Amazon should have one here by Wed (it's Monday night).
I also ordered the thermofuse and thermostat to be safe. Gotta love the Amazon suggestion, "You may be interested in..."
Cheers to you Funbro.

jamison groh: it's not Grounding* i meant

jamison groh: if you have continuity through the coil and...

0 0

Since the element initially heats, many of the components in the heating circuit are apparently okay. I recommend that you conduct this test:

Clean the lint screen. If you use dryer softener sheets, wash the screen with water and then completely dry it. The lint screen will need to be clean for this test.

Disconnect the flexible vent hose behind the dryer so that it will temporarily vent directly into the laundry room for this test. Position the dryer so that you can check the air temperature going out of the vent behind the dryer. Ventilate the laundry room as much as possible.

Fill the drum with a medium load of wet towels. The drum needs to be loaded with wet laundry to accurately check the cycling of the element.

Start a cycle on high heat.

Monitor the temperature coming out of the vent behind the dryer. The dryer should heat up to about 150 to 160 degrees. It should then shut off until the temperature...

0 0

Air Flow Problem

If the dryer won't stop, check the venting. A clogged or partially clogged vent will reduce the air flow through the dryer and greatly increase the drying time.

Blower Wheel

If the dryer is slow, the blower wheel might be broken or plugged. The blower wheel is attached to the drive motor and draws the air through the dryer drum. Remove the vent from the back of the dryer and see if the air flow is strong. If not, check the blower wheel.

Heating Element

Electric dryers have a heating element which warms the air as it passes over. If the dryer is slow, this element may be burned out. The element can be checked for continuity. If it is burned out, the element must be replaced, it is not repairable.

Heating Element Assembly

If the dryer is slow, the heating element assembly may need to be replaced. The heating element assembly warms the air as it passes over. If the heating element is burned out, or any other part of the...

0 0

Dryer Heats for 30 Secs; Coil Dies Out

My Montg Wards dryer heats for 30 secs then heating coil dies out. Dryer keeps turning but not heating so takes more than 2 hrs. to dry a load. To complicate matters, I removed some screws from back of machine and when I tried to return them to original condition, found no receptacle for them to go into. Now drum makes noise like its loose. I will take the whole thing apart if there is an adjustment that will make it better. But if the heating coil problem needs a serviceman or woman then I need advice to repair or replace.
This dryer was here when we moved in 8 years ago. Do you know how long a dryer should last? If your advice is to replace, what is a good brand or what ?s should I ask?

The reason you can't replace the screws is that the section that holds the drum support is out of alignment and no longer held in place by the screws you removed. I would have to dismantle the dryer, and remove the drum to line...

0 0

The Kenmore Elite H3 is a modern, electronically controlled, front-loading dryer. The dryer uses electricity to heat up a heating coil. The dryer's fan blows air over the coils and distributes the heated air throughout the dryer to dry clothes. Over time, the heating element may burn out, resulting in a dryer that seems to function, but at the end of the timed drying cycle, the clothes are still wet. Replacing the heating coil is a relatively easy project that can be accomplished with just a few tools.

Unplug the cord from the electrical socket. Pull the dryer out enough to access the back of the unit.

Remove the screws securing the dryer's back panel with a 1/4-inch nut driver. Remove the panel, and set it aside. Be careful to avoid cuts from sharp metal edges.

Pull the wire connector off of the thermostat's terminal. Grab the thermostat by its base, and pull it out of the heating element's terminal.

Pull the wire connector off of the heating element's...

0 0

When dryer heats too slow, that means that there is a problem either with the heating element, the thermostat, or the vent.

See the following suggeations from Repairclinic:

Drying is too slow It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour, check these.

Heating element
Internal ductwork
Cycling thermostat
Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance.

Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.

Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In...

0 0


Unplug the dryer.


Take off dryer exhaust hose and remove the back panel.


Look at the back of the dryer. On the right side, you'll see a long metal (probably gray) housing. The Element is inside.


Unscrew the black sensor on top, and unscrew the black sensor on the bottom.


Unhook the two wires just below the bottom sensor. (These two sensors could be your problem (in 50% of the cases, it is). Also, there is a heating fuse to your left, under the larger casing on the left. It is about an inch long, and has two wires attached. This can also be your problem. One screw holds it in. If in doubt, take all these to the appliance store, and they'll test them with a voltmeter.)


Gently lift up on the whole gray casing. It should easily come loose. If not, lift a little harder and pull the bottom toward you. There may be a screw and small bracket at the top that needs to be removed....

0 0
Holly Hyatt: do you have a video to show how to replace the sensor and thermostat? Your heating element video was great, thank you!

Fran Bohr: Great instructions.
Thank you!

Scott Williams: Worked great for me. Thanks Bob!

Mike B: Thank you very much for this video, you saved me a lot of money. The video is excellent and very clear as if you were created for this. I got my heating element from ebay for 22$ including the shipping, and replaced it myself after I thought I have to spend a 150$ at least like what happened to my previous dryer. You also saved me time calling technicians and becoming a victim to their over pricing. I think all those who didn't like your videos are frustrated technicians, otherise there is absolutely no reason for anyone to dislike your videos with the perfect quality you made it with. May God bless you richly.

Malabar Spyder: great vid thanks. I like this design better than the LG or samsungs because those require removing...

0 0
Oven update Two repair companies came out and both said the ovens can't be repaired. It's likely that parts exist somewhere, but my parents in their 80s are not appliance hobbyists and their 1972 Hotpoint is not a collector's item. THey need something that works. Their first choice would be to have what they know (current range) repaired, but it can't be done easily and they need easy rather than a restoration project.

They'd like to replace it with a freestanding electric range with an over the range microwave---thus allowing them to give away their counter top microwave and free up some counter space. There are however some issues that go along with their request:

1. I don't trust my father re: setting the house on fire with burners he can't see (smooth top) so for safety we are looking at electric coils which he CAN see.

2. Oven needs to have KNOB control, not an electric control panel in back that they have trouble seeing/operating. Age 86 is not a good time to...

0 0

The main idea of a dryer is to circulate warm air through wet clothes to evaporate moisture from them. This sounds really simple, but there are many implications. This means that all dryers have to have a blower to move air and a heat source to warm the air, and that airflow is very important. It also means that all dryers must have a way to toss the clothes around a bit, because air won't circulate through them if they're just laying there in a big wet lump. This is done, of course, by "tumbling" them in a big round drum.

The main differences between different makes and models are the way the drum is supported, the layout of any electric heaters, and airflow.

All dryers have a drive motor which turns the drum through a belt. In most dryers, the motor also turns a blower fan connected directly to the motor shaft; in a few notable exceptions, the fan is belted off the drive motor, too.

Warm air evaporates moisture much faster than cold air, so all dryers also...

0 0

Is your electric oven not heating? I have an oven that does not heat. The stove top heats, the lights work, and the oven controls work but the oven is not heating. I have tried everything. Everything works EXCEPT the oven will not heat. Does this mean the bake and broil element went out at same time? Please help I need to cook for 9 people in the next week. BTW I have a Kenmore Electric Range Oven. Thanks for any help you can give!

If everything is working properly BUT the oven, it usually means that the baking element and the broil element are intact and working. The issue is most likely a bad internal fuse, oven temp sensor, thermostat, a broken/frayed wire, power issue, or an oven control board.

NOTE: Electric ovens use two different electrical circuits. The heating elements use 220 volts. Most everything else including lights, timers, and rotisserie motors run on 110 volts.

Oven broil element

Here is a list of parts that may be causing your OVEN NOT...

0 0

In their most basic forms, ovens and cooktops are pretty simple devices. Technically, all they do is develop high, controlled temperatures in specific places, in order to transfer heat to food and cook it.

The important words here are "high" and "controlled." These two requirements present specific challenges to the folks who design and service ovens. And consumers demand gadgets that might make life easier for them, but they sure make the life of a serviceman tougher.

For example, when you talk about controlled temperatures, you are not only talking about keeping the temperature within a certain range with a thermostat, but also controlling the times when the heat starts and stops being applied to the food. So there might be a timer wired into the oven circuit to start and stop it. In some models there is a self-cleaning function too, which means that the oven temperature will rise to an extraordinarily high level (around 1000 degrees), stay there for a set amount of...

0 0

Hi, my name is Gene, owner and operator of

Mr. Magic appliance repair company

I have been involved in the appliance repair business for over 30 years and for the last 17 years I’ve been servicing people in Orange County, CA.
From basic Whirlpool refrigerators to high-end Thermador ovens, you can expect professional diagnosis with a fair estimate and a quick, accurate repair. If you need a good and honest appliance technician, call me today


I service and repair all major appliances: Oven, Range, Cook Top, Microwave, Refrigerator, Dishwasher, Trash Compactor, Washer and Dryer.

I do work with appliances made by: Admiral, Amana, Bosch, Caloric, Dacor, Frigidaire, Fisher & Paykel, GE, Hotpoint, Jenn Air, Kitchen Aid, Magic Chef, Maytag, Roper, Kenmore, Sub Zero, Tappan, Thermador, Viking, and Whirlpool

For fast and professional appliance repair, call the expert today...

0 0

Price Match Guarantee

Best Buy is dedicated to always offering the best value to our customers. We will match the price, at the time of purchase, on a Price Match Guarantee product if you find the same item at a lower price at a Designated Major Online Retailer or at a local retail competitor's store.

Here's how:

If you find a qualifying lower price online, call 1-888-BEST BUY and direct a customer service agent to the web site with the lower price, or when visiting a Best Buy store, one of our employees will assist you. On qualifying products, Best Buy will then verify the current price to complete the price match.

Exclusions apply including, but not limited to, Competitors' service prices, special daily or hourly sales, and items for sale Thanksgiving Day through the Monday after Thanksgiving. See the list of Designated Major Online Retailers and full...

0 0