How to cut floor boards square after wall removal [duplicate]

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Decide where you want to start your tile.

Most people decide to lay tile from the center of the room outward, which is important if you're dealing with even-sized tiles. This method will create a nice effect in the center of the room, but tiles in the edges of the room will need to be cut. You may decide to start tiling from another spot in the room, especially if you're using irregular-sized tiles. You may choose to have uncut tiles on the sides of the room and work from there if cabinets, sofas, or other furniture is covering tiles on one side of the room. This article will assume that you want to start from the center of the room and work outward.

Make sure you do a dry layout with your tile and spacers directly on the cement board before you lay down the mortar. A dry layout will allow you to visualize the room as it might be when everything is finished. Experiment with different layouts until the right one catches your...
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View photo gallery instructions for this project

It is simpler to replace square-edged boards than tongue-and-groove boards, since they do not have interlocking edges. Take care to avoid damaging cables and pipes below floor level.

Mark a pencil line on the damaged board over the nearest joist (Image 1). If the damage is central, mark lines on joists either side of the damage.

Lever up the broken board, using a pry bar (Image 2). Rest the pry bar on a wood offcut to avoid damaging the floor.

Once the board has been raised high enough, place wood offcuts underneath to hold it in a secure position (Image 3).

Saw along the pencil lines to remove the damaged section of board (Image 4). Protect the floor with a spare piece of board.

Using the damaged section of board as a template, mark the new board and cut it to size (Image 5).

Position the new section of board in the gap, and nail it in place (Image...

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Our flooring material required only fine sanding. If you’re not sanding, clean the floor with a cloth dampened with paint thinner. Remove tough dirt or scuff marks with a fine (120-grit) sandpaper. Fill all your countersunk face-nail holes (not the decorative cut nails) with a hardening putty and sand flush with the wood with 120-grit paper. Use putty that closely matches the wood’s color.

Heart pine floors darken slightly with exposure to light and will age gracefully, taking on a unique mellow color. You’ll obscure this natural aging (patina) with stain, but if you want to stain, keep it light. Try a test piece first. Let the stain dry for 24 hours and then apply the oil finish.

Apply a heavy coat of the penetrating oil (Photo 19), let it soak in for 15 minutes and then apply a light coat where it looks dry. After another 15 minutes, wipe the floor dry with clean cloths (Photo 20). Do not leave any wet areas—they’ll become shiny spots. Let the oil dry for 24 hours,...

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I love to hear old-timers tell stories. At a JLC Live stair building seminar taught by Jed Dixon, I talked with Jed and Don Jackson (editor of JLC) about installing skirt boards and how I was taught to install the treads and risers first, and then scribe the skirts over the top of them.

Don told me that they had a guy who taught that method in one of their Live events. Pre-built stairs were set up on stage with the treads and risers butting against the drywall on the closed side. The instructor told the audience that he was going to scribe the skirt over the in-place stairs.

During one of the sessions, an audience member raised his hand and said: “I’m sure it can be done, but for the time it’s going to take, and with the fit you’re going to end up with, it’s much better to install the skirt first!”

The instructor then asked the fellow if he had a $20 bill. The guy pulled one out of his wallet and the instructor pulled one out of his wallet. The instructor then...

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Updated 15 July 2012

Introduction: This page will document the construction of my backyard observatory. This is a project I had wanted to do since the summer of 1975. A variety of factors (mainly lack of cash and a suitable location) caused the 30+ year delay in starting this project. I live in a place where (for southern New England anyway) the skies are still reasonably dark and I expect to be here long enough to make construction of an observatory a worthwhile undertaking. The photos below document the progress of observatory construction.

The observatory I built is a roll-off roof type observatory, I decided on dimensions of 8x12. I did not have a set of plans, I kind of just "made things up as I went" (but I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted to do after doing some basic research and looking at other designs). My budget for this project was around $2500, so that means I am doing nearly all the labor myself. I did purchase most of the construction materials...

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Blog #31

Choosing Tile For Your Home Made Easy

Choosing tile for your next home project can be a challenge. There are plenty of options out there when it comes to tile and grout that it can be overwhelming. But take a breath, take your time, and keep some of these simple tips in mind.

Porcelain vs. Non-Porcelain Ceramic

Making the choice between porcelain, non-porcelain ceramics, and natural tiles can be a tough one. The main question to ask yourself is what will this tile be used for. Porcelain tiles are durable as they are made from pressed porcelain clay types,

Tile looks amazing in bathrooms and kitchens. Plus it’s extremely durable. However, how do you care for and clean grout after a tile installation? Bathrooms can get really dirty and it’s important to know how to clean your tile. Some of the best ways to clean tile involved natural ingredients which allow you to avoid using harsh bleaching agents. Check out these ways to clean your...

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