Do I need a separate switch leg for a light and a fan in a combo fixture?


TRADITIONAL WAY: You will need to have (or pull) the following wires between the switch and the fan/light:

1 Ground (green or bare) 1 Neutral (white, sometimes gray) 1 Hot (The switched-hot leg) for each thing you want to switch Extra hot wires as needed

If you don't have 2 "hot" wires available, you can wire the fan and light together so they come on together under the control of one switch.

Up in the fan, ground goes to ground, neutral goes to neutral, and each of the "switched hot" wires goes to whatever it controls. I have no idea what your black and 3 silver wires are on your fan/light, those are not standard colors in USA practice, and don't resemble any modern Euro colors either. A long time ago, Europe used black for neutral. You need to consult the installation manual for that fan/light, it will tell you what the wires do.

MODERN WAY: buy a smart switch and control module specifically made for this purpose. Wire as above, but you only need one hot...

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2 Answers

I have a 12/2 (black/white/ground) power source to the leviton 1755 switch. And, I have two (2) 12/2's going to a Broan 100hl (vent, light, heater). Please help wiring switch and Broan; on...

The switch that you have works like 3 seperate switches. most of these switches will have gold screws
on one side and silver screws on the other side, lets say that the left is gold and the right is silver, and
the switch may also have a green screw for ground. your 12/2 with ground is your main hot, you may
want to mark it with a piece of tape, so you know it's the incoming hot. the ground off your hot will tie,
to the green screw on switch and continue and tie to your vent light which should also have a ground
the white coming off the hot is your neutral, it will go straight to your white or whites on your heater.
the black hot wire at your switch will go to each gold terminal on one side of the switch,there are two

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Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Yes that was the original setup - and also what I replicated...

This is what happened when I tried to test the wires:
There are two large wires coming into the box that are open with a white, black & bare wire coming out of each. the two bare wires are entwined and into one that is wrapped on the ground.

the two black wires are attached to the screws on the left of the switch - the whites are on the right side of the switch on either side of the ground screw. When I touch the white line on the switch that originates from the right wire (coming into the box) I get a hot connection to either of the black posts.

When I test the other white wire to either of the black posts I get...

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Hi all,

I currently have a circuit in a bathroom that looks like this:

Power > Fan/light combo > double switch combo (one switch for light and one for fan both in single box)

This is currently wired with 14/3 with ground so I can control the fan and light separately.

If I want to add a light in the circuit like this:

Power > fan/light combo > light > switch

that is switched along with the light on the fan/light combo unit, do I need to add ANOTHER 14/3 wire between the light box and the fan/light unit to create another parallel leg? Or is there some way to wire it with the existing 14/3 wire that I already have running through the box for the new light?

Does this make sense? Please help clear up my...

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Three Parts:Removing Old SwitchesInstalling a Double SwitchTroubleshootingCommunity Q&A

A double-switch allows you to operate two lights or appliances from the same location. Double switches, sometimes called "double pole," allow you to separately control the power being sent to multiple places from the same switch. For example, you might want to turn on a bathroom light separately from the ceiling fan. To wire a double switch, you'll need to cut the power, remove the old switch, then feed and connect the wires into the double switch fixture. Though it is not difficult to wire a double switch, careful attention to safety is crucial to prevent injury.

Note: This article only describes installing the switch itself, not rewiring two conjoined feeds that need to be separated. If you are trying to separate two lights that use the same wiring, as opposed to two already separate sources, you will likely need a trained...

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Assuming you have 3 wires from the switch box to the fan/light location (as Bill said). Then this is what you do:

1. take the 2 wires on the switch that controls the outlet off the switch, twist them together in a wire nut, and push them into the back of the box. Now the outlet will always be live.

(Your 3 wires to the ceiling are probably white, black, and red. That's what I'm assuming in the following.)

2. In the ceiling, connect the red hot wire to the blue wire controlling the fan. Then connect the other end in the box to the switch that used to control the outlet. That's now your fan switch.

3. In the ceiling, connect the black hot wire to the light. Connect the other end in the box to the other switch to control the light.

4. Connect the incoming black hot wire in the box to BOTH switches. This is your power from the breaker box.

5. Connect all the white wires together, in both the ceiling & the box. Also connect any bare ground...

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Hey again,

I apologize for the long delay, I only work here in the office for 2 days and the last time I was here I was working on a lengthy project.

As for your wiring setup, the key is to make sure you have two hot leads coming from the ceiling fan to the switch. This will guarantee the dimmer I showed earlier in this thread will work.

You'll need to check and see what wires you have now coming from the existing junction box to your ceiling fan. I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume the old dimmer was just a single pole one that lead to the fixture.

To update your wiring, you can run another black wire, but you'll need to do it safely so the wiring doesn't get frayed or damaged when it is being pulled through the attic/wall.

You won't need a lot of it, but you will need to measure how much is needed to complete the job.We carry small amounts of solid copper wiring in 12 gauge or 14 gauge at your local store. The outer jacket on the wire will...

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Last Updated September 30, 2017 21:21 PM

I've started installing a fan that has me stumped. I'm not great at electrical, but have installed several fans. This is the first true combo switch I've tried though (the others being a remote-combo kit).

Here are some pictures (sorry for the size, not sure how to shrink them on here):

Things I've tried:

switch-blue -> red -> blue | switch-black -> black -> black (switches reversed, smelled burning electrical so flipped the breaker)

switch-blue -> black -> blue | switch-black -> red -> black (seems to work, but the fan control doesn't actually do anything, the fan just stays on)

Fan Model: 5DI52BSD-L

Switch: ESSWC-5-WH

(both are Monte Carlo brand)

If I use a normal single switch, attach both the blue and black from the unit to the red from the ceiling, everything seems to work fine still.

Any ideas what's going...

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Ceiling Fan Installation

I have just installed a ceiling fan (with light kit)in my gameroom but I am not sure about the wiring. The fan has a black and white wire and the electrical box has a black, red and white. I am putting the fan on a dual switch so I what the fan controlled on one switch and the light on the other. But the problem comes in on how to do the wiring when I only have one hot wire coming from the fan. Does anyone know how I should handle this so that each switch controls a functions?

Depending on what products you used and how you connected everything, the light kit should have its own black (sometimes blue) wire. You may have connected this to the fan's black resulting in only one hot wire. You can connect the hot wire from the light kit directly to the hot wire from the switch.

Ceiling Light Wiring

I have a ceiling light with a pull chain switch. I want to add a second porcelain keyless lamp base to another part of the...

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for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.

1. On a 120 volt system in which the house is located in the United States, how do I wire a light switch that only has one point which will control the device?

A: (TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT FIRST) In order to wire this switch, we'll assume you are not running a completely new circuit, instead you are tapping off of a nearby receptacle or other power supply.
With Romex cable, inside the box where the switch is or will be, optimally you should have all black, all white and all copper individual wires. The neutral (white), you want to wire nut all of them together and bury them in the back of the box.
Second, you want to do the same with the grounds (complete copper or green wires) with the exception of this: You have to check what type of box it is in which the switch has been or will be placed.

1. If it is a metal box then you will need two ends (or very small pieces of same colored wire)...

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Last week I described how an outlet should be wired for switch control when the voltage enters the circuit at the outlet. This setup is how our master bedroom was wired before I installed an overhead ceiling fan. As promised, I detail below how to modify this wiring setup with minimal effort so that the switch can instead control an overhead fixture. Later this week, I’ll post some before and after pics from our ceiling fan installation. Before we get started, let’s briefly review last week’s diagram:

Review of Switched Outlet Wiring (Power Enters at the Outlet)

In this diagram, voltage enters the circuit at location (A) in a standard 2-wire (+ground) Romex. The white neutral wire from this Romex is connected directly to the silver terminals on the receptacle (E), and the black hot wire is connected to the white wire running to the switch (B). The white and black wires from this Romex are connected to the switch (C). The black wire at the switch is now...

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I need guidance on how to install a new electrical outlet to an existing wall. My bathroom only has one electrical outlet, and it's located on the vanity light over the sinks (see photo close-up of light outlet on outdated fixture with rad vintage pastel ikat wallpaper).

More info:

Usually this should be pretty easy, since there should be an outlet on the other side of the wall that you can just tap in to; but there's no outlets on the other side of any of these walls (see wall descriptions below). There are electrical wires running through these walls though, powering lighting and heating. So, can I just cut a hole in the wall, reach my hand in, grab a random wire, cut it, splice in wiring to a new outlet, and magically everything works? Probably not that simple. I can grasp the basics involved in this, but I'm not 100% certain on how to proceed with my situation since I don't think I need to deal with feeding up new separating wiring from the basement but I also...

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–Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical work–

This page contains wiring diagrams for household light switches and includes a switch loop, single-pole switches, light dimmer, and a few choices for wiring a combo switch/outlet device. Also included are wiring arrangements for multiple light fixtures controlled by one switch, and a split receptacle controlled by two switches.

Wiring a Switch Loop

When the electrical source originates at a light fixture and it's controlled from a remote location, a switch loop is used. The circuit pictured here is wired with 2-conductor cable running from the light to the switch location. The white cable wire in this switch loop is wrapped with black tape and connected to the bottom terminal on SW1 and the hot source at the light. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on SW1 and the hot terminal on the light fixture. The neutral from the source is connected directly...

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Hey H/A, I've got hopefully a simple one.

I recently bought a house, and am in the process of renovating.

It's an older house, and a lot of the work before that has been done on it was done really shoddily, either by amateurs who didn't follow directions or didn't care, or really crappy contractors. I'm currently replacing most of the light fixtures, and there has been a relative march of problems on each one(One fan/light combo only had one screw in the mounting plate, for instance, and was just hanging there.)

Currently I'm trying to replace the master bedroom light, and I'm looking at this:

I'm assuming that the red is hot, that much I have figured out.

Are the three beige wires that are wound together the neutral? The white wire came out really, really easily when I removed it before, so I didn't see where it was going. Is it possible that they did the super unsafe attaching the neutral to the ground? I know I shouldn't do...

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I recently installed a bathroom fan where one did not exist previously. I just finished wiring it and have a problem I am not sure how to correct.

Originally from the light to the light switch there was one black wire and one white wire.

Coming out of the fan is a black, white, and ground. I installed a junction box in the attic as getting the bathroom fan wire through the wall was impractical. I cut the wire running from the light to the switch (1 blk/1wht) and put both cut ends in the box along with the fan wiring. I wire nutted the 3 blk wires together and the 3 white wires together and left the ground as I'm in an older house.

When I turned the power back on the fan now runs when the switch is off. When the switch is turned on the lights turn on and the fan turns off. I would like them both on when the switch is on and both off when the switch is off. Any help and advice would be much...

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No it's dirty power spikes/surge/noise...

You need a power conditioner to maintain a clean flow of power to all devices, a surge protector plug won't do much. Your device is losing power due to the other draining it, then it surges back.

I had similar issues with my A/C. I also play the electric guitar (rock/metal) and have amp/effects, etc. Then have sub-woofer, surround sound, etc. They all add on the mains where was a bit dirty and affected each other. This affects sound quality and bigger devices can drain out others, specially when turned on/off.

I added a Furman PL-PLUS Power Conditioner, so each device has it's own power cable from that. The result was very clean power, manages a good power level for all, no interference between devices, and also great surge protection, etc. For high-end electrical and audio, I highly recommend investing it one, it will safe your expensive equipment and prolong it's lifespan.

That dirty power will damage your...

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At the ceiling box - the black and red wires coming from the switches are both ungrounded switch legs {aka hots}. You will have 2 ungrounded fixture conductors {aka hots}, one for the fan and one for the lights. One ungrounded fixture conductor {aka hot} will connect to the black wire from the switch and the other ungrounded fixture conductor {aka hot} will connect to the red wire wire coming from the switch. The white wire from the switch serves as a grounded leg {aka neutral} for both the fan and the lights. This arrangement allows you to switch separately the fan and lights.

Bare wires are together and grounded to box and if the fixture has a green wire or a grounding screw , it gets grounded also. Bares and green wires are equipment grounding conductors.

Be sure to read all documentation that comes with your fan / light combo fixture.

If you need onward power from the fixture

If only switched power required onward then at existing...

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You will need to install a ceiling box suitable for the fan you want to install. You will either need to install a 2"x4" or 2"x6" piece of bridging, between the joists & screw the box to the bridging or install a fan mounting bar/box combination.

Unless you just want to add a two gang box for your new switches, you can use a duplex switch that will fit your existing switch box.

With the breaker off, remove & disconnect your existing switch. The two wires you remove from that switch can be twisted together, wire nutted & taped...this will make your outlet hot all the time. Leave the ground wires twisted together.

Next, pull a piece of 12-3 or 14-3 (if local code allows 14-3) from the switch to the fan's ceiling box, then pull a piece of 12-2 or 14-2 from the fan's ceiling box to your new attic power source.

At the switch box, connect the black to one of the gold screws & turn the other one in. Connect the red wire to one of the silver terminals & the white wire...

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This article describes a fan or light switched separately power source at light and light controlled by two 3-way switches and fan at one location only 3-Wire (plus ground) cable being routed thru the ceiling box between switches.

At the ceiling box - the ungrounded conductor {aka hot} from the fan connects to the black wire from the switch 1. The ungrounded conductor {aka hot} for the light connects to the red wire coming from switch 2. The white wire from the circuit power supply cable is the grounded leg conductor {aka neutral} for both the fan and light. The white wire from the switch (on the black/white/bare cable) connects to the black wire from the circuit power supply cable.

The red wire on the black/red/white/bare cable coming from switch box 1 is unused and just cap it off at both ends with a insulated wire nut. This will provide a switched ungrounded conductor {aka hot} for the fan and a switched ungrounded conductor {aka hot} for the light.


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