Adding a light fixture to an existing fixture


A ceiling fixture that operates off a switch when you enter a room is a convenient way to light a room. Adding a ceiling fixture where none existed before entails bringing power to a wall switch and wiring from the wall switch to the ceiling fixture for the light. The most common method requires tapping into an existing outlet to supply power to the fixture.


Select the outlet nearest the new switch location, on the same wall, and turn off the power to it at the circuit breaker. Bring the no-contact voltage tester close to the outlet to be sure it is off. Remove the outlet cover and receptacle by removing the screws with a screwdriver, but leave the wiring attached. Remove a circular knockout from the side of the electrical box by setting a screwdriver against it and hitting the screwdriver with a hammer.

Find each stud between the outlet and the switch location with the stud finder. Cut a small hole in the drywall next to each stud with the jab...

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Wall mounted light fixtures are often called a wall sconce and are a great way to add character to general room lighting. In this tutorial, we will review to replace a wall mounted light fixture or sconce, and replace it with a new fixture.

When changing out a light fixture like this, you may find the electrical box mounting bracket for the new light fixture is different, which is what we find and review in this tutorial. So let's review the steps involved in how to replace and install a wall... light fixture.

Wall Sconce Light Fixtures

Needed Tools and Materials

New Wall Sconce Light FixtureWire NutsElectrical Tape

First things first. Before any repair is performed on an electrical circuit you need to make sure the power is off. Turn off power to the circuit feeding the switch. You do this by going to your electrical service panel and either removing the fuse or turning off the circuit breaker feeding power to the...

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A typical motion detector has three wire on it. Black, White and Red. To install this on an outside light it get wired as follows. The White wire is the Neutral. It gets attached to the White feed wire and the white wire that hoed to the light. The Black wire feed power to the motion detector. It attached to the Black feed wire coming from the house. The Red wire on the motion detector is the switched wire. It get attached to the black wire coming from the light fixture. -------- Is the existing light fixture a decorative one? I ask because having been in security biz for long time, it's important to know the difference YOU WANT in your motion light (from a regular decorative fixture.) The purpose of a motion sensored light - for security purposes - is to startle the perp. when a bright light suddenly shines on him. You want him to think you're inside and you turned the light on him so he will run for the hills. Criminals don't like to get caught in the spot light or encounter...

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I have power (R,B,W wiring) entering my fan / light and it is controlled by fan/light switch at end of run....with (R,W,B wiring). I want to add a light fixture before the fan / light and have it controlled by the light part of my light / fan switch at the end of the run. Can this be done?

I don't know what R,B,W means. What country are you in? If it was an Australian installation, I'd be saying yes, but it's got nothing to do with the position if the run. I'd just be putting another lamp, in parallel to the existing one, in what ever position I wanted it. Would this adhere to the rules where you are? I don't know. One of the problems with asking trade questions, is that if you aren't a tradesman, then you're not using terminology that tradesmen have been using their whole working...

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The simplest act of switching out a light fixture can dramatically change the atmosphere of a room. But if you don't know how to hardwire a light, it's not such a simple act, is it? I've spent all of my adult life calling my dad whenever I've wanted a light fixture changed. It's gotten to the point that I could never move away, or I would be doomed to live with ugly lights for the rest of my days. Or else call an electrician, I guess. But why would I do that when I'm perfectly capable of learning how to hardwire a light myself?

I had three lights that needed changed during our recent renovations, and instead of calling Dad to hardwire them for me, I asked him if he could walk me through the process. You guys, it's so easy— I don't know why I thought it was so scary! It's a good skill to keep in your mental tool box (aka brain), so read on to find out how simple it is to hardwire a light without calling an electrician.

When we first moved into our house, I thought I'd...

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Take a lamp, plug it into the existing outlet and see which wire is controlled by the switch. It will either be the black or the red wire. The other wire (not the switch controlled one) will be the constant hot that you will use to feed the receptacle. Run some 14/2 from the outlet to your light. Disconnect the switch controlled wire (switchleg) from the outlet and splice it into the black that you ran up to the new box you're gonna use for your light. Splice the white into the white in the outlet box. Don't forget to connect the constant hot to the screw terminal you removed the switch leg from on the receptacle. Splice all the bare grounds together. Now your switch will control the light and both sides of the outlet will be constantly...

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Watch video of this step.

If you have access from above, you can make and install your own support brace using a length of 2x4 lumber nailed to the ceiling joists on both sides of the box location (Image 2). Position the brace directly above the ceiling box. From below, use wood screws to attach the ceiling box securely to the brace.

If you do not have access to work above the ceiling, you can install an expanding metal brace from below to support the ceiling box and fan. First, remove the existing box, then insert the brace up through the hole and secure it in position by ratcheting the mechanism into place. As the ratchet is turned from below, arms on the brace extend until they contact the ceiling joists on both sides of the hole (Image 3 demonstration). The spikes on the arms anchor securely into the wood. Some braces are available with a ceiling box attached, or you can attach the existing ceiling box to the brace.

This method also may be used to mount a...

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Made in the USA

The Larson Electronics HAL-48-2L-LED Hazardous Area LED Light Fixture is U.S./Canada approved for Class 1 Division 2 Groups A, B, C and D, UL 1598A listed, and ideal for hazardous locations where flammable chemical/petrochemical vapors may be occasionally encountered. This hazardous location LED light has a T4 temperature rating and carries a United States Coast Guard approval, making it ideal for applications such as oil rigs, ships, offshore applications, petrochemical, manufacturing, chemical storage, and water treatment centers.

This four foot long, two lamp LED fixture is ideal for operators seeking a top quality hazardous location light that will reduce operating costs, improve lighting quality and reduce downtime incurred from frequent servicing intervals. The HAL-48-2L-LED fixture is listed Class 1 Division 2 Groups A, B, C and D hazardous area LED light that takes the reliability and efficiency of a fluorescent fixture and adds even longer...

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